Ski Abruzzo
Driving up into the mountains of the Majella National Park a couple of weeks ago, we passed through the ski resorts at Passo di Lanciano and La Majelletta. It was the first time we'd been this way since we'd been up to take a look at the ski facilities in February – and we could hardly believe the contrast in the winter and early autumn landscapes.

Take a look at the chair-lift at Passo di Lanciano in February – and in October. The mountains have had their first snow flurries – next month, the scene will again be a wintry one.

Incidentally, the piste underneath  the chair-lift is the last stage  of Passo di Lanciano's one black run. It starts much higher on La Majelletta, swooping down to finish – conveniently – right by the cafe !

Along with Passo di Lanciano, the other big ski area here is a couple of thousand feet higher on the slopes connecting La Majelletta and Blockhaus. The road up from Passo di Lanciano is clear except in the very worst weather. The drive takes 10-15 minutes and there's a huge parking area around the famous 'Albergo Mamma Rosa', which for 40-odd years has been a skiers' haven. Check out the difference between February and October !

The slopes between La Majelletta and Blockhaus have a couple of black runs and – like Passo di Lanciano, a lot more red and blue ones for intermediates and beginners. Once we're into November, check out the snow conditions in the area here. Local ski and boot hire is easy and while weekends are always busy, treat yourselves to a day's skiing midweek outside the school hols and you'll have the area pretty much all your own.

Walking Holidays in Abruzzo
Incidentally, while we're talking of things to do on your Villasfor2 holiday in Abruzzo, you might like to know that during 2009, we plan to offer – among other special 'themed' weeks – walking holidays in Abruzzo in and around the breathtaking scenery of the Majella National Park.

We're working on developing these at the moment – so bookmark this site and check back often. Like our regular Villasfor2 holidays, our walking holidays in Abruzzo – and our other special themed weeks – will be for three couples only, and we'd hate you to miss out !

(Click on pictures in text for larger images) 

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In 'Blog of Blogs 1', we told you about the why's and how's of our move to Abruzzo. So we're here. Where's 'here' ? On the fringes of the Majella National Park outside the tiny hamlet of Ascigno, just to the north of Casoli – which is pretty much in the middle of the map on the left and marked with a blue circle. Click on the map for a better view.

We've found an Abruzzo property where we'd like to live and run our 'Villasfor2' holidays for couples business – but we haven't actually bought it yet. Now what ? These blogs will explain. Click on their titles to read them.

• About Villasfor2. Where in Abruzzo we actually are – and the kind of holiday we plan to offer you.
• Three Good Reasons For An Abruzzo Holiday in November. Yes, a slightly bizarre title for a blog that ran in January. But read it. It does make sense.
• Buying Property In Abruzzo. This struck a huge chord. Seems there are an awful lot of us looking for that ideal and elusive Abruzzo property.
• Abruzzo Food Special – Sunday Lunch At 'La Quercia'. Stuff yourself at our best local agriturismo…
• Ski At Passo di Lanciano and La Majelletta. …and then burn off those excess calories on the local slopes. Or just drop in for coffee, cake and the scenery. C'mon, you're on holiday…
• One Less Property For Sale In Abruzzo ! The blog we'd been busting to write. We finally complete the purchase of Villasfor2 HQ !
• A Typical Abruzzo Market – Sunday At Casalbordino. Time for a little retail therapy -  Abruzzo-style !
• Abruzzo Sightseeing – Abruzzo Flora. Spring sees the countryside carpeted with wild flowers. It's the best time of year to go walking and wandering.
• La Morgia – The Abruzzo Landmark That's Also An Artwork. Spring also gave us our first real chance to explore the local area. This was our stunning first stop.

That takes us up to the start of April 2008. At this stage, the planning permits for our own house and the villas for your holidays for couples were going through the application process. The third and final part of the Villasfor2 About Abruzzo Blog of Blogs will bring you right up to date.

(And if you'd like to mail us – there's a link at the very bottom of this page – below the space reserved for comments !)

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It's hugely encouraging that every week more people are reading the Villasfor2 About Abruzzo blog which I started writing about a month after our arrival in Italy in early October 07.

I know from your mails that you regard me and Pauline as either brave, crazy, misguided and/or visionary, but the simple fact is that we wanted somewhere new to live and to run the kind of small, low-key, laid-back villa rental place that we'd never quite been able to find ourselves.

The About Abruzzo blog is a record of how we do this. To read any of the entries below, click on its title. If you're new to the site, this – and a couple more upcoming chapters along the same lines – will bring you up to date. If you already know the story so far, there'll be a brand new blog along in a minute ! 

• So We Got In Car And Drove To Italy.  The first-ever blog. If you want to know why – read on…
• Introducing – Selva di Altino. A little local knowledge – and the 2005 World and European Pizza Champions.
• The Cat Blog. Meet Little Plum, Edwin and Aurora.
• So We Got In The Car And Drove To Italy (2). More why's. And a few how's…
• Meanwhile, In The Back Seat… "But are the cats alright ?" Yes, fine thanks. We're OK too, by the way…
• Olives And WiFi. An 'About Abruzzo' ancient and modern multi-media mix.
• Introducing – Pescocostanzo. Our favourite mountain village.
• Every House in Abruzzo We Didn't Buy. Don't like that one. Or that one. Or that one…
• The House in Abruzzo We Did Buy. Villasfor2 HQ. Our home – and the site for your holidays for couples !
• We've Had A Little Snow. The perfect excuse for some scenic shots in the blog.

That takes us up to the start of 2008. At this stage, we'd put down a deposit on our new property – but we hadn't actually bought it yet. Find out what happened next in the second chunk of the Villasfor2 About Abruzzo Blog of Blogs ! (And if you'd like to mail us – there's a link at the very bottom of this page – below the space reserved for comments !)

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The story actually begins in September 2006, when we began looking seriously for an Abruzzo property that had the scope to provide us with a new home – and the setting and the space we needed to provide villa holidays for two. Why ? This might explain…

• If you're looking for an Abruzzo property – allow plenty of time. And then a bit more. Here's every house we didn't buy…
• ..and the one (or rather, two) we eventually did…
• So once we'd decided where to live, the next task was actually getting here…
• …with the cats… 
• …who'd quickly developed their own fanclub after their first blog appearance. Yes thanks, Little Plum, Edwin and Aurora are all just fine. Us too, by the way.

With this all in place, it gave us the chance to tell you what we were going to do with our Abruzzo property in the way of providing holidays for two and entice you to spend your Abruzzo vacation with us. There wasn't enough space in just one 'About Villas for 2' blog – and it prompted quite a few questions too. Which explains the subsequent appearance of 'More About Villas for 2' !

Just one problem. It's all taking a very long time to materialise. Not that there have been any major setbacks. Italian bureaucracy works at its own sweet and slow pace. At present, we're just waiting for the approval of our planning application. Once we have that – the construction work should begin. And when that's started, we should get a better idea of when we can realistically expect to open. Which in turn will allow you to start planning your Abruzzo holiday for two !

And the delays have had a couple of unexpected, positive effects. They've allowed us to get to know the surrounding area really well, which'll allow us to pass on to you where to go for a great meal; which are the best beaches; where to listen to open-air opera; where the best sights are – and when's the best time to go and see them; plus all the myriad other little inside tips to let you get the most from your Abruzzo vacation.

What's also been underlined is what a fantastic year-round holiday area this particular part of Abruzzo is. Because there's no mass international tourism, there's space in abundance for you to enjoy.

The ski blog a couple of months back, all about our nearest resort at Passo di Lanciano/La Majelletta, showed you the sheer expanse of slopes you'd have enjoyed at around midday on a beautiful, clear Tuesday in mid-February.

You could have driven there from your villa for two, parked your car a few metres from the bottom of the chair lift, had a quick coffee and started skiing all in under ninety minutes. 

On Monday – April 21 – we thought we'd take advantage of the glorious weather strolling the long and magnificent sandy beach at nearby Le Morge. 

This picture was taken at around 3.00 in the afternoon. The temperature was 26C/79F. During our walk, we counted two swimmers; five sunbathers; and two other couples out walking their dog. We had all this to ourselves.

So could you !

(Click on pictures in text for larger images – and bookmark this site and check back often to keep in touch with what's happening.) 

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It's a beautiful morning in late February. You've maybe popped down to Sant'Eusanio to get some fresh bread for breakfast and on your way back, you just couldn't help stopping the car and gazing up to the snow-covered peaks of the Maiella, glistening white against a clear blue sky. Put whatever plans you might have had for the day on hold. Act on impulse. Head for the mountains. 

 When you get there

An hour from leaving your Abruzzo holiday villa just outside Casoli – and after a beautiful and easy drive up through the Maiella National Park – you'll be parking your car a few yards away from the bottom of the chair-lift at Passo di Lanciano. You'll immediately notice how uncrowded it is – and how nearby you can hire skis and boots and pick up a ski-pass.

Or maybe you've forward-planned a little and booked yourself a few lessons, either just for the two of you, or in a group. It doesn't matter in the least whether you're a total beginner or just a little rusty. You'll be with others of the same age and ability. Or if you've skied before, you might want to try something new like snow-boarding. However you've handled it, you're in for a great day. The ski-school is right alongside the chair-lift.

Even if you don't want to ski at all, just sit with a beer or a coffee in one of the many bars and cafes and take in the views. Or if the road is open – and unless the weather's bad, it usually is – another 10 minutes or so in the car will take you up through the treeline to the 1995m heights of La Majelletta and some truly breathtaking views.

In the 2007/8 season: 

• a day's ski-pass in the Passo di Lanciano/Majelletta area cost between €16-20 each
• a half-day – either up to, or after, 1230 – was only about €5 cheaper
• ski and boot hire was €16-€22 per person, depending on the type you hired
• skiboard hire was the same
• take your passport – you may be asked to leave it as a deposit against the safe return of your hire equipment
• ski-school was open 0830-1630
• lessons ranged from €30/hour for 1-to-1 instruction; to €40/hour for a couple; to €25 each for a 2-hour group session
• equipment hire is substantially discounted if you book lessons
• English is widely spoken !

Get more on the ski-school here – or send them an email: info@scuolasciblockhaus.it

Their telephone number is (+39) 0871 896139 

You can read reviews from people who've skied at Passo di Lanciano and La Majelletta here – and get up-to-date snow and weather forecasts for the area too.

And by the way, if you go to Passo di Lanciano/La Majelletta during the week, it really is uncrowded. The picture below was taken outside the 'Albergo Mamma Rosa' on La Majelletta (great spot for a snack and a drink) at 1245 on Tuesday 19 February. Welcome to your very own personal, private, exclusive ski resort !

If you've skied before – will it suit you ?

You can ski at Passo di Lanciano/Majelletta from December and into late-March/early-April. The area offers: 

• 20kms of ski slopes
• 9 ski lifts and 1 chair lift
• at least 6 blue (easy) runs; 15 red (intermediate) runs; and 5 black (difficult) runs
• 9kms of Nordic (cross-country) trails
• Passo di Lanciano is 1650m above sea-level (about 5400 feet); La Majelletta is 1995m (about 6550 feet)
• And of course we'll tell you the quickest way to get there from your Abruzzo holiday villa !

(Click on pictures in text for larger images)

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Getting There
Pescocostanzo's an easy hour's drive south of us. You skirt Fara San Martino where the world-renowned 'De Cecco' brand of dried pasta is made – and its unmissable factory – and then start climbing steadily through the Maiella National Park up to Palena. The road's good and the views are wonderful, but nothing will prepare you for what you'll see when you've made that last pull up through the woods from Palena and emerge onto the Cinque Miglia Plateau.

As you round one last bend, you expect to see more mountains. What you don't expect to see – and what never fails to delight me – is the enormous level plain of the Cinque Miglia spread out before you, ringed by the Maiella mountains. You're now up at about 1400m – around 4,500 feet. In winter, the Plateau becomes a vast cross-country skiing arena: for the rest of the year, it's the home of sheep – still herded on foot by shepherds and their dogs around the best grazing pastures -  and some intimidatingly large mountain cattle you'll probably already have noticed grazing by the roadside.

Welcome to Pescocostanzo
A dead straight, wide-open road, with just a little unexpected chicane around the tiny Pescocostanzo and Rivisindoli railway station, brings you to the Pescocostanzo turn-off to your right. Unless you're heading for a meal at La Corniola on your left – which we've already mentioned in an earlier blog. Keep going for another couple of hundred metres and leave your car either next to the park on your left, or in the carpark. Then walk up into the town. (You can drive into the centre of the town, but at busy times, access is for pedestrians only.)

You've got to admire the local comune for resisting the redevelopment that's marred several other resort towns. While there is a little development around Pescocostanzo, the town itself is absolutely unspoiled. And tiny.

It won't take you long to stroll around. There are a higher-than-normal number of little food shops – with higher-than-normal prices – and a couple of jewellery craft shops and art galleries – the nicest of which is just to the right of where I took the picture just below.

The via Colecchi, Pescocostanzo's main thoroughfare,  leads you to – and ends in – the triangular Piazza del Municipio, with its old Town Hall and the Palazzo Ricciarelli. There are two bars in the Piazza – the American Bar and the Bar Italia. Up until about noon on a fine day – at least in autumn – the Bar Italia is bathed in sunlight and it's the place to sit outside for your  pre-lunch glass of prosecco.

Then time moves on and the sun shines – literally – on the American Bar. Perfect for an afternoon coffee or chocolate and some excellent cake and perhaps a well-earned grappa after a stroll up the Corsa Roma off to the right of the Bar Italia which leads up to the ski lift; or a walk through the nearby Bosco San Antonio Nature Reserve; or maybe just climb the short flight of stairs you'll see a few metres past the American Bar. They'll take you up to the old church of Sant'Antonio Abate and some unmissable panoramic views over the Cinque Miglia and past Pescocostanzo's old tiled roofs up to the ski runs of Monte Calvano.

And Lunch – Or Dinner
There are at least five restaurants I know of in Pescocostanzo. I've already mentioned La Corniola; if you'd like to go somewhere a little more informal and relaxed, try Da Paolino. You'll find it on the right-hand side of the via Colecchi as you near the Piazza del Municipio. It's cosy, welcoming, bustling and comfortable – and advisable to book (0864 640080) for lunch at weekends and other busy times. The food's typically abruzzese. Terrific home-made pasta, like Fettucine di Grano Saraceno with garlic, fresh tomatoes, pine nuts and pistacchios, followed by char-grilled home made salsicce. Our bill, with an excellent bottle of Novello, was around €50. 

And Pescocostanzo has its own site too.

(Click on pictures in text for larger images)

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• a high of 21C – around 70F – at lunchtime
• followed by vicious squalls early evening
• and the sight this morning of the mountains in the Maiella National Park with their first proper winter coat of snow

Perhaps not quite enough to get the skis waxed and the car revved-up for the drive to Passo di Lanciano or Roccaraso, but certainly enough to justify a glass of hot chocolate after having a decent snowball fight and building a snowman.

The Winter of their Discontent
Some snow – any snow – will almost be a cause for dancing in the streets of the Maiella National Park and Gran Sasso resorts after last winter, when the first proper snows didn't arrive until January. They lingered – as they always do – well in to March, (and even later at Passo di Lanciano), but that wasn't much consolation for a damp squib December. I asked one of the waiters at the excellent La Corniola in Pescocostanzo, (a bit pricey, but recommended. Try the tagliatelle with lamb ragu if it's available), what last winter had been like for business. The gist of the answer was 'Not that great…'

Good News for Ski Bums
Roccaraso's waiting for you ! Hard to believe that Abruzzo's biggest – and best ? – ski resort isn't in the Gran Sasso, but at the southernmost tip of the Maiella. The Roccaraso-Rivisindoli area has 100kms+ of slopes: access them all with an Alto Sangro Skipass. You can get more details from the Consorzio Skipass Alto Sangro on 0039 086 460 2148.

Ski in the Morning; Swim in the Afternoon (or play Golf – or all three !)
It's not some hoary old PR story. You really can ! After an early start and a few good runs down the slopes at Passo di Lanciano – from which you'll be able to see the sea twinkling in the distance – jump into the car and head for Francavilla, just over an hour away. In  late March/early April it's warm enough for a brisk – or even leisurely – dip in the Adriatic, (which is guaranteed to get you the undivided attention of the beach dog-walkers), followed by a round of golf at Miglianico GC  

And then…and then…a gargantuan blow-out. After a day like that, you deserve…no, not a pizza…not even two pizzas (though you'll be hungry enough)…but that culinary legend – Bistecca alla Fiorentina and the best bottle of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that money can buy. And with restaurant Montepulciano d'Abruzzo prices starting at around €5 a bottle, and a connoisseur's choice available at under €20, the bill's not going to irreperably dent your holiday budget.

(Click on pictures in text for larger images)

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