The town, along with its mighty Benedictine Abbey on the summit of Monte Cassino, was obliterated between January and May 1944 in one of World War II's epic battles.

Cassino today is a modern town. Thriving, bustling and prosperous.

The Abbey too is modern. Once again a Benedictine monastery, rebuilt to its exact original plans and re-consecrated in 1964, with an air of peace and timeless tranquillity untroubled by its past.

That it exists at all is incredible. That it's been so painstakingly and faithfully resurrected from utter ruin is nothing short of miraculous.

Enter the Abbey through a small and unassuming door cut into the stonework.

A cool, shaded path leads you past a small, cloistered garden onto a broad terrace, where statues of St Benedict and his twin sister St Scholastica, flank the steps leading up to the Basilica.

The views out over the Liri Valley from the terrace and, particularly, from the top of the steps, are spectacular.

But it's this same commanding aspect, 520m/1700ft, above the surrounding countryside, that made the Abbey such a key strategic vantage point and provided for its destruction.

In the five months leading up to the eventual capture of Monte Cassino, a campaign that resulted in some 75,000 Allied and German casualties, the Abbey was reduced to rubble.

That its treasures survived owes much to the courage and foresight of two German airforce officers who arranged for these – and most of the Abbey's Benedictine monks – to be transported out of harm's way to the safety of the Vatican in late 1943.

Such is the perfection now of the Abbey and its Basilica, it's near-impossible to comprehend its previous destruction. Yet reminders of the War are close at hand.

On the mountain's slopes, just beneath its summit and facing the Abbey, is a Polish War Cemetery, where over a thousand soldiers who died during the campaign are buried.

The inscription on the cemetery gates reads:
We Polish soldiers have given our bodies to Italy; our hearts to Poland; and our souls to God for our own, and other peoples' freedom.

Touchingly, rosaries have been placed on most of the crosses marking each grave. Not identical, mass-produced and thoughtlessly mass-distributed, but each an individual recognition from a family; or a friend; or a comrade; or, most simply, from someone grateful for the ultimate sacrifice made by each of these fallen soldiers.

The Abbey is open daily – though closed between 1230 and 1530. The rebuilt Basilica lacks only some of the rich decorations of its ruined predecessor, but untouched by war is the Crypt, at the far end of the Basilica and underneath the Altar, with stunning original frescoes, carvings and mosaics.

While entry to the Abbey is free, there's a €7 charge (2011 price) to go round the Museum. Well worth-while for the opportunity to see breathtakingly fragile and beautiful illustrated manuscripts dating from the 10th century, and extraordinary treasures like the personal prayer book of Pope Urban V.

There's also a small book and souvenir shop which commendably keeps prices at reasonable levels. Especially good is the well-written and profusely illustrated guide and history of the Abbey, available in a choice of languages.

On the other side of the coin, give the 'Historiale di Cassino' multi-media display in Cassino Town a wide berth for its charmless staff and the inescapable feeling that the enterprise is less about remembrance and more about turning a fast buck.

But let's not end on a negative note. For the iconic status it has achieved for both religious and historical reasons, Monte Cassino Abbey is one of Italy's absolute five-star, must-visit sights.

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Doesn't happen too often – but how good is it when it does – that something so exceeds your expectations  that the dull thud you hear on experiencing it all is the sound of your own jaw dropping to the floor.

The Vatican Museum has joined that elite personal collection.

What's even better is that it's all such a surprise. Just following a simple arrow pointing to Sistine Chapel cunningly leads you on a journey of such richness and wonder, that when you do finally arrive at the home of one of the great artworks in the world, you're almost – but thankfully not quite – overwhelmed by what you've already seen.

Attempting to describe the treasures on display would be a pointless exercise in listing superlatives. I loved the 17th century Map Room, the insane opulence of its ceiling offset by the simplicity of the wall maps of ancient Italy stretching so far you feel the room's builder must have needed to allow for the curvature of the earth.

How satisfying to see our home town Cafoli depicted on the map of Aprutia – Abruzzo as was – and its near-neighbour Guardia di Gallo. Better-known now of course simply as Guardiagrele.

Though you might have set off at a brisk trot to reach the Sistine Chapel as quickly as possible, you find yourself slowing down as each Museum gallery exceeds the last.

And that's good, because when you arrive at the Sistine Chapel's unassuming entrance, your pace will be a pleasing dawdle.

And dawdle is something you'll now need to do.

However many times you might have seen it on television or in books, nothing prepares you for the reality of the Sistine Chapel.

Begun by Pope Sixtus IV at the end of the 15th century, the Chapel was already sumptuous enough even before its two most famous additions, the ceiling; and the painting of the Last Judgement behind the altar, which were commissioned by Pope Julius II in the earliest years of the 16th century.

Calling on the sublime talents of Michelangelo for this work hardly seems the most difficult of choices ever made, but it was in fact a brave one – and even more courageous and enlightened of Pope Julius to subsequently staunchly defend the fruits of Michelangelo's efforts from fierce criticism – including that of blasphemy for his depiction of God with dirty feet.

The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel – like the Mona Lisa in the Louvre – is of course the magnet that draws the crowds that queue round the block in high summer.

It doesn't disappoint.

Calling anything 'the best' or 'the greatest' always invites endless argument, so let's just call Michelangelo's depiction of The Creation on the ceiling 'iconic' and leave it at that.

And please don't, as so many do, crane their necks upwards; register what they've come to see; and leave. The Sistine Chapel isn't just Michelangelo.

There's so much else at which to marvel; so many more wonderful works to enjoy. The rest of Rome will still be outside when you emerge, so make your visit as leisurely as it can be. It's really worth it.

Neither is the Sistine Chapel the last stop on your visit to the Vatican Museum.

Not that what follows is in any sense an anticlimax, but it's too often ignored in the rush to get round the corner to St Peter's; or back on the coach; or to the Colosseum or the Forum.

There are more wonderful treasures – including some blissful stained glass – before you finally get funnelled through the inevitable 'retail opportunities' at the end of your tour. I defy you to buy nothing.

While you browse, you can ponder how Michelangelo would react to seeing The Creation reproduced as a fridge magnet. And yes, I did buy one.

A little basic information…

• The Vatican Museum is open from 0900-1800 Monday-Saturday. The ticket office closes at 1600.
• Admission for an adult in 2011 costs €15. Which is worth every penny. You're strongly advised to buy tickets online, which, especially in summer, will save you endless queueing.
• The Museum's closed on Sunday, except the last Sunday of each month when it's open from 0900-1400. Last entry is at 1230 and admission is free.
• Allow at least a couple of hours for your visit.
• The Museum's also occasionally closed at other times during the year – take a look at the Vatican Museum website for more information.
• The Museum has a refreshingly relaxed attitude to photography. No flash – but take pictures wherever you want. Except inside the Sistine Chapel.
• A tip. When you go, take a small pair of binoculars. You'll be the instant envy of everyone else in the Sistine Chapel and you'll see the ceiling it as Michelangelo saw it.

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Lunch was at La Cantina di Biffi in Sulmona. Not because George had lunched there a few days before, but because it looked nice; and it was lunchtime; and the only other choice seemed to be a Chinese restaurant.

Yes, there are Chinese restaurants in Abruzzo. And though I'm sure this was a crackingly good establishment, based on our experiences so far, Chinese restaurants in Abruzzo are unremittingly awful.

Aside from being a pretty town in the mould of many other Abruzzese pretty towns, Sulmona has two key selling points: Candy and garlic.

Sulmona's justly-famous red garlic is a real garlic-lovers' garlic. Pungent and powerful. At La Cantina di Biffi they chop it – not too finely – fry it, and stir it into polenta of a sublime creaminess.

Then they spoil it by rationing you to a meagre little portion – and anything less than a kilo of this delicious unctuousness counts as 'meagre' – as part of a really rather good antipasti platter.

Quite pricey at €13 each and contributing to a bill of €70-odd. But you can't expect my good friend and distant dining partner George Clooney to eat anywhere cheap for heaven's sake.

But this – and other touches of creative pricing – might've explained why George looked a little…well…gloomy in the photo proudly produced by the cantina's owner.

He'd probably just been given the bill.

That's enough precious blog space devoted to Gloomy George. Think instead of sweeties of an almost unnatural gloss and colour artfully fashioned into cute little flower shapes.

When it comes to confectionery, what's more important: eye appeal or taste ? Whether you're an aesthete or a glutton, you'll be thrilled that Sulmona's sweeties score highly on both counts.

And not as avariciously-priced as a Cantina Biffi starter either. Had George lunched on chocolates, sugared almonds and nougat instead of fancy antipasti, he'd have been all smiles come the post-prandial photo-call.

We again contributed significantly to the profits of Sulmona's hospitality industry by discovering that sloppy service and inflated prices don't make up for posh surrounds at the Gran Caffe dell'Aunnunziata right opposite the Chiesa della Annunziata, watching its medieval facade getting a quick scrub-up in preparation for a visit from Pope Benedict two days later. A visit to anywhere alongside George Clooney and the Pope. Not many people can say that.

Anyway, here's the plan: Wander round undeniably delightful Sulmona and take in the sights; plenty of places to have a drink/coffee other than the Gran Caffe; buy candies and garlic. Then get in the car, drive 15 minutes or so to the lovely little village of Pacentro; and have lunch.

Osteria Maggiore and Taverna de li Caldora, though as yet untried by us, have been sampled by Vf2 Guests and given top marks. And I don't think Gloomy George has discovered them yet.

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Walk into any church in Abruzzo during December – and with regional variations, this probably applies to the rest of Italy too – and you'll find a lovingly-built Nativity scene: the 'presepe' depicting the stable in Bethlehem where Jesus was born.

But it's a tradition that isn't just confined to churches, because constructing a presepe is a hugely popular hobby among Italians and at craft stores and markets, you can buy items ranging from the Three Wise Men;  to a tiny lamb; to an enormous 'stage set' on which you can build the most intricate nativity scene, complete with electrically-powered moving parts.

Our neighbour Nicolino Carosella in the nearby village of Fontepaduli has been building his own presepe outside his house for the past six years. Each year they get bigger and more elaborate and this year, it stretches right around his house.

The centrepiece of course is the nativity scene itself. You'll notice one important absentee. The tiny blue silk crib itself is empty. As is traditional in Abruzzo, the tiny figure of the infant Jesus won't be placed in the crib until midnight on Christmas Eve.

And in addition to the nativity scene. Nicolino has this year built a series of tableaux depicting countries of the world. The work involved is astonishing. Nicolino does it all himself and receives not a penny for his efforts. It's a labour of love.

And each year's display is completely different from previous years. The only constant is the centrepiece: the presepe.

Nicolino's displays have now become a regular part of our Abruzzo Christmas. As they're built outside his spacious house, they're always 'open' and remain so until January 6 – the traditional close of the festivities.

THere's nothing to pay. Just park your car and wander round. It's not a sight you're going to see anywhere else and the fact that it's so personal and that Nicolino takes so much pleasure in your admiration and delight makes it all rather magical.

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It was our summer guests Sarah and John from England who first got us thinking about whether it really was possible to travel from Villasfor2 for a day out in Rome.

Bearing in mind Rome's notorious traffic problems – not to mention the driving involved – taking the car didn't seem like a good idea. The train's worse. Even the fastest journey takes well over four hours.

The only way you're going to spend a day out in Rome – and have enough time there to enjoy it – is to go by coach.
Di Fonzo Autolinee run a terrific service from nearby Lanciano to the Tiburtina bus station just outside Rome's centre.

Catch the 8am service and you'll arrive at 11am. A 100m walk to the Tiburtina metro station and you can be at the Vatican; the Colosseum; or the Spanish Steps about 20 minutes later. It's a no-brainer.

We went in early December, planning the day around a visit to the Pantheon and the Christmas market which runs daily in the Piazza Navona from December 1 to January 6, the traditional date in Italy on which Christmas festivities end.

The Piazza Navona is an easy 30 minute stroll from the Spagna metro station at the Spanish Steps. A walk easily made longer as you amble down Rome's premier shopping street, the Via Condotti, which is so smart and swish it makes Rodeo Drive and Bond Street look like slums.

Think of a designer label – it's here. The prices induce nosebleeds. You need to be super-rich, super-cool, or super-confident just to go into one of these glitzy emporia. The Via Condotti is probably where window shopping was invented.

The Christmas market is a bit more approachable. It's part-market; part-funfair. There's an awful lot of tat on display, but enough stalls selling merchandise of genuine quality to more than hold your interest.

And if you're not in retail mode – or it's outside the Christmas period – you can always admire Bernini's stunning 'Fountain of the Four Rivers'. An hour or more slips by quite effortlessly.

Though momentarily tempted by L'Arcano (06.67.86.929), We lunched at Antonio di Pantheon (06.67.90.798), a proper Roman trattoria that stands out like a beacon of gastronomic honesty in a sea of Pantheon restaurants where a fast turnover and maximising profits seem more the order of the day.

Both L'Arcano and Antonio di Pantheon are in Via dei Pastini, a restuarant-lined lane that links the Pantheon to the Via del Corso.  

At Antonio's, we shared a starter of deep-fried courgette flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovy; some pasta; Scallopine al Limone and Polpettine with borlotti beans; a bottle of house red, water and coffee, which came to €71. Expensive by Abruzzo standards; cheap when compared to other Pantheon restaurants.

A short and satisfied waddle later had us admiring the Pantheon. Built in 125AD by the Emperor Hadrian, it houses the tombs of Italy's first two kings, Vittorio Emanuele and his son Umberto, and the Renassiance artist Raphael.

But the real show-stopper is the Oculus, a 27-foot hole at the top of the dome that's open to the elements. When rain or snow cascade through the Oculus down to the marble floor 142 feet below it's reckoned to be the best bad-weather sight in Rome.

Incidentally, take a moment when you're outside the Pantheon to walk around the back for a glimpse of a few surviving fragments of the Basilica of Neptune dating from 25BC.

By a happy accident, almost literally across the Via del Corso from the Pantheon is another of Rome's must-sees, the Trevi Fountains.

Follow tradition and throw a coin (over your shoulder) into the fountains to ensure you'll one day return to La Citta Eterna and try not to get too annoyed with the touts and conmen offering with monotonous regularity to take your photo.

Perhaps the sheer romanticism of the Trevi Fountains makes it so popular – even on an early evening in December. It's spectacularly and satisfyingly big and the fountains and gushing water are loud enough to drown out the crowds.

We made it back to the Tiburtina bus station in good time for the 9pm bus, which pulled into Lanciano at 1155pm.  We were back at Villasfor2 half an hour later.

Couldn't help but feel smug that while the weather in Rome had been beautiful, it had rained all day in Ascigno.

We travelled by Di Fonzo Autolinee – www.difonzobus.com – and paid €61 for two return tickets. But you can travel for as little as €10 return at quieter times of the year.

Recommended ? Unhesitatingly. A day out in Rome could be one of the highlights of your Abruzzo villa holiday !

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Our friends Nick and Susie recently visited us from England and were deeply impressed by the contrasting areas of mountains, hills and beaches all within a short distance of our Abruzzo villas for two. On successive days, we enjoyed the warm autumn sun as we strolled over what in a few weeks time will be the ski slopes of La Majelletta; and then found the sun to be even hotter at sea level as we went for a paddle and had miles of perfect sandy beach all to ourselves at Le Morge.  

Then, in answer to their search for exercise just a little more strenuous, we took Nick and Susie to the Spirito Sancto gorge in Fara San Martino – a short drive from your Abruzzo villa for two. We've talked before about Fara and its stupendous Visitatore festa in August, which is climaxed by a thunderous firework display set off at the entrance to the Spirito Sancto gorge – a deep cleft leading into the heart of the towering mountains that loom over the town.

Just follow the road through Fara and park near the small wood-built bar at the top of the path that leads down to the entrance to the gorge. Stop for a coffee and take in the view !

At the very entrance to the gorge, the remains of a medieval abbey are being excavated. Once you leave that behind, you're in 'Lord of the Rings' scenery as the easy-to-follow path leads you under vertical cliffs upwards into the heart of the Majella.

At weekends, especially in July and August, the Sprito Sancto gorge is a popular spot for a typical walk in Abruzzo. But in midweek, especially outside the peak season, you – like us – will probably have the place to yourself.

The gorge is steeped in legend. The story goes that it was San Martino himself who parted the mountains and created a way for the villagers of Fara to take their herds of sheep and goats up into the slopes to graze. 

Take a look around you. In the cliffs you'll see many curiously-shaped holes. Geologists will tell you that they've been created by water cascading down from the melting snows of the Majella each spring. But the legend is that these are marks left by the elbows of San Martino as he forced his way through the mountains to open up the path you're now on.

This particular walk in Abruzzo can be as long or short as you want. When you've had enough – simply turn round and head back. Press on and you could tackle a route up to the top of Monte Amaro – the second-highest peak in the entire Appenine chain at 2793m/9163ft. An arduous day-long – but achievable – adventure for experienced, guide-led walkers only !

Or if you're truly into challenging sports, the sheer sides of the Sancto Spirito gorge offer around thirty free-climbing routes, ranging in difficulty from Grade 3 to 7.

Aside from good trainers in dry weather, or light boots if it's wet, you won't need any specialist clothing or equipment for a walk through the Spirito Sancto gorge of around 'an hour up – and an hour down'. 

The shale/pebble path is generally well-marked and easy-to-follow and though it leads pretty continuously uphill, there are no steep gradients in the first couple of miles or so. But be warned that the further into the gorge you go, the tougher it gets !

We reckon that the best time to enjoy this particular walk in Abruzzo would be in the spring when the alpine flowers in the Spirito Sancto gorge must be a wonderful sight. We'll check and let you know… 

(Click on the pictures in the text for larger images) 

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Last October we were too busy just arriving in Abruzzo – on the 9th to be exact – to take that much notice of what the weather was like. The day after we got here it rained. Then it was OK. And that's about as far as memory takes me. This year, it's been different.

This Abruzzo October had a couple of damp, chilly days at the start, but ever since, the weather's been fantastic: day after unbroken day of clear blue skies; temperatures upwards of 20C/68F; and a pleasant Autumnal nip in the air each evening.    

This Abruzzo October, we've had time to enjoy it. Building progress on our new home and your Abruzzo villas for two is good, so we took a day off from the latest task of organising central heating and bathrooms to immerse ourselves in the Autumn scenery of the Majella National Park, which is just spectacular at the moment.

From the Villasfor2 site, we've been able to look up and see the slopes of the  Majella National Park slowly changing colour. Too big a temptation to resist. We had to get closer !

There are several ways to drive into the Majella from your Abruzzo villa for two – all easy; all near. We ambled up through Guardiagrele. The roads were empty; the scenery virtually ours alone to enjoy.

If you feel like it, you'll find places to stop for a coffee or a drink as you climb upwards past Bocca di Valle and medieval Pretoro, perched on a near-vertical hillside, and always worth strolling around. 

Climb higher and the forest becomes thicker, cover for the wolves and the bears, the trees becoming a lacework of light and colour in the Autumn sunlight.

We were lazy, just stopping the car to admire the views wherever the mood grabbed us. But if you're less slothful than we were, you can enjoy some fantastic walks through the Park. 

You're free to go pretty much anywhere you want, but it's safer – and ultimately more enjoyable -  to keep to the well-signposted trails taking in easy rambles or challenging hikes. The Majella boasts over 300 miles of walking trails through its 40,000 acres, so it doesn't get that crowded !

Whether you're driving or on foot, go high enough – and you'll eventually emerge through the tree-line and be rewarded with some stunning views.

On this particular Abruzzo October day, the supreme sight for us was the russet-clad forested slopes that stretched out for miles beneath us.

And if we hadn't opted for the Majella National Park, we could have spent the day at the beach instead. Yes. Really ! On a Villasfor2 holiday in Abruzzo next year, that wouldn't be such a bad choice to have for a day out in October – would it ?

(For the bigger picture, click on the images above) 

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Ski Abruzzo
Driving up into the mountains of the Majella National Park a couple of weeks ago, we passed through the ski resorts at Passo di Lanciano and La Majelletta. It was the first time we'd been this way since we'd been up to take a look at the ski facilities in February – and we could hardly believe the contrast in the winter and early autumn landscapes.

Take a look at the chair-lift at Passo di Lanciano in February – and in October. The mountains have had their first snow flurries – next month, the scene will again be a wintry one.

Incidentally, the piste underneath  the chair-lift is the last stage  of Passo di Lanciano's one black run. It starts much higher on La Majelletta, swooping down to finish – conveniently – right by the cafe !

Along with Passo di Lanciano, the other big ski area here is a couple of thousand feet higher on the slopes connecting La Majelletta and Blockhaus. The road up from Passo di Lanciano is clear except in the very worst weather. The drive takes 10-15 minutes and there's a huge parking area around the famous 'Albergo Mamma Rosa', which for 40-odd years has been a skiers' haven. Check out the difference between February and October !

The slopes between La Majelletta and Blockhaus have a couple of black runs and – like Passo di Lanciano, a lot more red and blue ones for intermediates and beginners. Once we're into November, check out the snow conditions in the area here. Local ski and boot hire is easy and while weekends are always busy, treat yourselves to a day's skiing midweek outside the school hols and you'll have the area pretty much all your own.

Walking Holidays in Abruzzo
Incidentally, while we're talking of things to do on your Villasfor2 holiday in Abruzzo, you might like to know that during 2009, we plan to offer – among other special 'themed' weeks – walking holidays in Abruzzo in and around the breathtaking scenery of the Majella National Park.

We're working on developing these at the moment – so bookmark this site and check back often. Like our regular Villasfor2 holidays, our walking holidays in Abruzzo – and our other special themed weeks – will be for three couples only, and we'd hate you to miss out !

(Click on pictures in text for larger images) 

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Don't get the idea that Abruzzo festa and sagre – the feasts, fairs and festivals for which the region's renowned – only take place in the summer. They're a year-round attraction – as you'll find when your're staying at our Abruzzo villas for two. And one of the very best took place last week in neighbouring Casoli.

On October 7, 8 and 9 each year, Casoli holds a Festa Patronale to honour its patron saints Santa Reparata and San Gilberto. Just so you don't forget, a giant thunderflash is set off at 5am on the 7th, taking a lead from the tumultuous 4am start to Lanciano's Notte Bianche a couple of weeks ago. Thanks guys.

Then a brass band marches through the town. Luckily, your Abruzzo villa for two is just out of earshot. But if you do feel like a little music at dawn – head for town. Everything's open.

Highlight of the 8th is a a cross between a parade and a giant bring-and-buy sale. Local people, young and old, dressed in traditional Abruzzese costumes, lead a procession in which tractors from every village in this rural, farming community pull decorated floats laden with the best local produce, which is then all sold.

But that really only tells half the story. Being a rural, farming community, all sorts of good things to eat and drink are produced around here and the nice people who produce it are very anxious that you should try it all.

Especially the wine. Yes, I know it's only 10am, but this is an Abruzzo festa ! Look around you. Everyone else is quaffing wine from plastic cups and nibbling bits of oil-drizzled bread, and little morsels slivered-off a gigantic provolone cheese, so you might as well join in. 

And naturally enough, while you're busy having a good time, it's only fair that those who've produced the tasty nibbles being pressed on you so generously should enjoy themselves too – hence a very high level of infectious and good-natured merriment. If you've ever wondered if you can party on a float being pulled behind a tractor – that would be 'Yes'.

I had to admit a moment of glowing pride when I realised that the tractor representing our little hamlet of Ascigno dwarfed all others in the parade. Did you know legendary Italian carmakers Lamborghini – of Miura, Countach and Diablo fame – also produced tractors ?

Yup, it is a bit of a letdown isn't it. Anyway, out of the mist roared this stupendous silver Lamborghini tractor. I have to admit, I'd never seen it around before – certainly not doing anything as messy as ploughing – and such was its pristine beauty, I think it's kept in a shed and only driven on a Sunday.

By late morning, pretty much everything had been sold; the wine had been drunk and the nibbles had all disappeared, while the crowds were beginning to get lured away by the thought of an aperitivo, followed by a long and leisurely lunch. Seemed like a tempting idea – especially as there was still one more day of festivities to go.

On Thursday 9 – exactly one year to the day after we first arrived in  Abruzzo – we headed back into Casoli for a little celebratory drink and to watch the free rock concert and the fireworks.   

The lights in town were…well…just lovely. The night was unseasonally warm with just a little autumnal nip in the air and we bought a bag of roast chestnuts and ate them as we strolled down to the funfair.

Funfair ? Yes – just for the kids. And hilariously so. The teeny little scaled-down version of a bucking bull ride was drawing screams of delight and excitement, but the real star of the show – the ride that separates big kids from little kids – was 'The Octopus'. 

You wouldn't have got me or Pauline on this. Ever. But as soon as one insane butt-clenching ride was over, there was a mad scramble for the back of the queue and the chance to do it all over again. I hated these rides even when I was a kid. Maybe this is where an Italian's love of speed and thrills all starts… 

That the fireworks that followed soon after midnight were stupendous, lengthy and extraordinarily loud and vivid probably goes without saying. What's even better is that it'll all happen again next year !

Alongside Casoli on October 6, 7 and 8, Ascigno celebrates its own Festa Patronale - San Gabriele – on September 5 and 6, literally within strolling distance of your Abruzzo villa for two. The Ascigno fireworks were fantastic and the first-night band - Baci di Romagna -  the best we've seen all year.

Click on the images above for the bigger picture. Better yet, put yourself in the picture and join in the celebrations at Villasfor2 in 2009 ! 

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Lured by the first sprinklings of snow up on the mountains of the Majella National Park, coupled with a beautiful warm autumn day, we couldn't resist heading up to the top of La Majelletta – an easy drive, less than an hour from your Abruzzo villa for two.

It's only when you emerge through the treeline after going past the Passo di Lanciano ski resort that you realise quite how high you've driven. We took these opening pictures at around 1500m/4920ft up.

Over to the north-west, a little over 50kms away, is the Gran Sasso range and the towering peak of Corno Grande, at 2912m/9554ft, the highest mountain in the entire 1000km Apennine chain, while all around you, Abruzzo is spread out like a patchwork quilt. 

On the clearest days in winter, you can actually quite easily see the Adriatic 35kms away to the east – allegedly the only place in Europe where you can ski and see the sea at the same time. (And it has to be easier to do than to say…)

We drove from Passo di Lanciano up La Majelletta until the road runs out at 1995m/6546ft. Or rather the road continues a little further up to the Blockhaus peak and beyond and although you can walk it, only official vehicles are allowed to drive on it.

Park the car; walk up the road a little and enjoy one of the Majella National Park's most spectacular views. Rising above thickly forested slopes, is Monte Acquaviva – 2737m/8980ft – with the distinctive 'V'-shaped gully running off its summit.

To the right of Acquaviva is Pesco Falcone, then on the far right of the picture is Monte Amaro - at 2793m/8980ft, it's the second-highest peak in the Apennines after Il Corno Grande.

And of course, we did exactly what you'll probably do too – set the self-timer and take a picture. The little wall we're sitting on – no more than 60cms high – is all that used to separate the mountain road from…well…quite a drop. You'll be pleased to hear the barriers nowadays are a lot more substantial !

The mountains of the Majella National Park have provided us with the inspiration of names for our three villas – Il Martellese (our nearest mountain); Acquaviva; and Pesco Falcone. You can see Il Martellese and Acquaviva from the sun terrace outside your Abruzzo villa for two. To be honest, we're not sure whether you can glimpse Pesco Falcone or not. Mountain tops look a little different when seen from ground level !

You can follow the drive we took up into the mountains between March and October. During winter the road heading up after the ski station at La Majelletta is generally open – but check the weather conditions first.

(Click on the images in the text above for the bigger picture !) 

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