Each Friday, David Brenner of Villasfor2 in Abruzzo selects a delicious, top-value 'Everyday Italian Wine' for you to enjoy at home – or on your Abruzzo vacation !

Vermentino di Gallura 'Funtanaliras'. Cantina del Vermentino-Monti. 2007

This is Sardinia's best white wine. No if's, but's or arguments. Actually, if we're speaking plainly, make that one of the best whites in all Italy. It's a beauty.

The vermentino grape is widely-grown across Sardinia – indeed Vermintino di Sardegna has its own DOC. But this is the real deal – its superiority recognised by the DOCG status it achieved in 1996.

This particular example is made with 100% vermentino grapes. It's permissable to have a 95/5% mix between vermentino and another white variety.

Vermentino di Gallura comes from the extreme north-east of Sardinia. It's an area of harsh conditions both in terms of weather and terrain, and this terroir comes across in the initial impression you'll get from this bottle. It's hard and flinty: not as instantly-approachable as most Italian white wines are.

The colour's beguiling. A soft greeny-gold. The first scent as you pour out a glass is startling: like the sparky whiff that's produced when you crack a couple of flints together. But let it breathe for a moment and you'll start to detect notes of melon and green pepper.

Now take a sip. Again there's that initial mineral hit, softening into apples and quince. Perhaps even a little citrussy hint too. A sharp edge kept under control by a delicious underlying softness that then develops into a surprising richness in the mouth. This is actually quite a complex and multi-dimensional wine. Not one you get the hang of after one glass. Or even, in this instance, three. It deserves its reputation.

Try this wine with any food for which you'd cheerfully open a good bottle of Chablis. Maybe it's ultimately a little rich for oysters – but sole, halibut or even, if you're incredibly affluent, turbot, all with maybe just a spoonful of melted butter into which you've stirred a little chopped chervil, would go incredibly well. 

Or if you've ever wondered just what to drink with that trendiest of combos – scallops and black pudding – this could at last be the answer !

Best to drink and enjoy within a year – two at most – of the vintage.

At A Glance…

• This week's featured wine: Vermentino di Gallura 'Funtanaliras'
• Vintage: 2007
• Producer: Cantina del Vermentino-Monti 
• Designation: DOCG
• Grape: 100% Vermentino
• Strength: 12.5%
• Closure: Cork
• This bottle cost: €5.69

Next Week: An intriguingly-blended DOC red wine from Lombardy. A wine that you'll enjoy trying at home – and on your Villasfor2 Abruzzo vacation ?

This entry was posted on Friday, January 16th, 2009 at 3:22 am and is filed under David's 'Everyday Italian Wine', Eating and Drinking, Vineyards. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.