David’s ‘Everyday Italian Wine’ - 47
Each Friday, David Brenner of Villasfor2 in Abruzzo selects a delicious, top-value 'Everyday Italian Wine' for you to enjoy at home - or on your Abruzzo vacation !
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso. 'Tenuta Ca' Vescovo'. 2006
This is a red wine from the Aquileia DOC region in Friuli, a bit to the south of Udine, which is just about as far as it's possible to go in north-east Italy without actually crossing into Slovenia.
The area of Aquileia is notable for producing a number of single-grape wines, with Refosco perhaps the best.
Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso owes its name to the bright red colour of its stems and is a late-ripening heritage grape reputedly known to the Romans.
This particular bottle, produced by the local Cervignano Co-Op right in the heart of Aquileia, comes from an area once owned by the Patriarch of Aquileia - its 'Tenuta Ca' Vescovo' branding can be loosely translated as 'The Bishop's Vineyard.
Compared to last week's truly dreadful bottle, even a can of paint would've been favourably reviewed this week, but thankfully this is wine that re-establishes confidence. It's rich and dark and seemingly stronger than its fairly innocuous 12.5%. In boxing parlance, it punches above its weight.
The initial bouquet and taste are almost port-like, with distinct traces of raisin and prune. A little tannin is in evidence, supporting the claim that this is a wine that'll age nicely for up to five years in the bottle. This 2006 - a decent year - is perhaps just a little young. If you come across a bottle, stick it in a wine rack for a couple of years and I suspect it'll have then developed into something pretty good.
That's not to say you won't enjoy this wine right now. Though it'll improve, as it's drinking at the moment, you couldn't find a better accompaniment at the price to the pasta with game sauces that crop up on every winter restaurant menu in this part of Abruzzo. And it's one of the very few wines around that isn't scared-off by strong Taleggio cheese !
- This week's featured wine: 'Tenuta Ca' Vescovo'
- Vintage: 2006
- Producer: Cervingnano Co-Op
- Designation: DOC
- Grape: 100% Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso
- Strength: 12.5%
- Closure: Cork
- This bottle cost: €4.68
Next Week: Sardinia's undisputed best white wine. The wonderful DOCG Vermentino di Gallura from one of the island's top producers. It's a wine you're going to enjoy trying at home - and on your Villasfor2 Abruzzo vacation !






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