Each Saturday, David Brenner of Villasfor2 in Abruzzo selects a delicious, top-value 'Everyday Italian Wine’ for you to try at home - or enjoy on your Abruzzo vacation !

Primitivo di Manduria. Corte Sveva. 2005
'Mmm,' said Pauline, taking an appreciative sip, 'this wine has a lot of…oomph !' As a one-word review, 'oomph' is just about perfect. At 14%, this isn't a wine to be sipped reflectively by the glowing embers of a dying fire while composing a sonnet. This is wine to be sloshed into a glass and quaffed as an accompaniment to rich, hearty braised meat - oxtail would be perfection - or maybe slow-cooked hare, venison or pigeon. Or here in Italy, the fabled cinghiale, or wild boar.

Never heard of Primitivo ? In fact, you probably have, but in a different guise, for Primitivo is the exact same grape variety as that much-loved Californian favourite Zinfandel. And if you like Zin, you'll love Prim.

The Primitivo grape is widely grown in Puglia in the 'heel' of Italy. Primitivo di Manduria - from an area roughly midway between Taranto and Lecce - is reckoned to be the best of all.

 The brand-name 'Corte Sveva' is a curiosity and refers back to the time in the mid-13th century when this part of Italy was ruled by King Frederick II of Schwabia - what we'd now refer to as the south-western corner of Germany. King Fred built a famous castle in Puglia called 'Castel del  Monte', which still stands today. It's a UNESCO World Heritage site and allegedly has links and clues to the location of the Holy Grail - a sure-fire draw for lovers of the da Vinci Code !

And in its own vinous way, this Primitivo di Manduria can match anything Castel del Monte has to offer. It's dark in the glass, with a  scent of rich, ripe damsons. In fact, hold that thought while you take a swig. Damsons again - a  hint of sweetness coupled with liquorice and black molasses. And all slipping down as easily as an oiled viper, with just a little tannin providing a touch of dryness in the finish.

By any standards, this is a remarkably good red wine. That's it's produced under a generic brand-name by a local co-op is astonishing. That a bottle as excellent as this will cost you only €3.98 defies belief.

Yes, you will find named-producer, estate-bottled examples of Primitivo di Manduria. But not for €3.98. And not appreciably better for even twice or three times the price. You may not find Corte Sveva - but look for the local Consorzio logo, and that'll be the assurance you're getting a brilliant, bargain bottle of everyday Italian wine. With oomph !

At A Glance…

• This week's featured wine: Primitivo di Manduria. Corte Sveva
• Vintage: 2005
• Designation: DOC
• Grape: 100% Primitivo
• Strength: 14% vol
• Closure: Cork
• This bottle cost: €3.98

If you like Italian wine, why not check out last week's 'Everyday Italian Wine' and bookmark this site for future weekly posts.

(Click on pictures in text for larger images) 

Next week: Trebbiano d'Abruzzo - the region's trademark white from Cantina Tollo's excellent 'Colle Secco' range for you to try at home - or on your Abruzzo vacation !

This entry was posted on Saturday, February 23rd, 2008 at 6:23 am and is filed under David's 'Everyday Italian Wine', Eating and Drinking, Vineyards. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.